Vegetarian Haggis for Burns' Night

a knitting project not a recipe

modification of a ball
uses short rows
end pieces added afterwards
stuffed with entrails

2 balls brown (green,red...)wool in different shades 
any weight wool (i used double knitting ) 


haggis pattern 

using 2 strands of wool (different shades)
size 5mm needles (or close size)

cast on 31 stitches (provisional cast-on is neater)

Row  1       : Slip 1 purlwise, K28, wrap yarn around next stitch, turn.
Row  2       : Slip 1 purlwise, P26, wrap next stitch, turn.
Row  3       : Sl1 purlwise, K24, wrap & turn. 
Row  4       : Sl1 purlwise, P22, wrap & turn.
Row  5       : Sl1 purlwise, K20, wrap & turn.
Row  6       : Sl1 purlwise, P18, wrap & turn.
Row  7       : Sl1 purlwise, K16, wrap & turn.
Row  8        :Sl1 purlwise, P14, wrap & turn.
Row  9       : Sl1 purlwise, K11, wrap & turn.
Row 10       : Sl1 purlwise, P8, wrap & turn.
Row 11       : Sl1 purlwise, K to end (19 sts), knitting wraps with stitches.
Row 12       : Sl1 purlwise, P to end (30 sts), knitting all wraps with stitches.

Repeat these 12 rows 3 more times (4 times in total),

Cut yarn, leaving a long tail.
sew up the side of the haggis

(using kitchener stitch to graft the loops of the cast-on to the live stitches still on the needle is neater...)

 

Cast on 8 stitches
Row  1       : increase 1 in each stitch (16stitches)
Row  2       : knit to end
Row  3       : purl to end   
Row  4       : knit to end
cast off loosely
sew cast edge to one end of haggis


Cast on 8 stitches
Row  1       : increase 1 in each stitch (16stitches)
Row  2       : knit to end
Row  3       : purl to end   
Row  4       : knit to end
cast off loosely
sew cast edge to other end of haggis

stuff through end
with toy-filling 




or make a few yards of entrails using a mini knitting mill 

or 
cast on as many stitches as will fit on needle
k row, purl row, k row, p row, k row cast off
sew up along long end  

holly berry xmas decoration

knitted for christmas decoration

modification  of online leaf pattern

uses four strands of dark green 4-ply wool
(left-over ball in the stash bag)
oddments of red wool

5mm needles 

1st and last stitches are worked into the back of the stitch 
(nice edge to work not essential)

wrap round needle on either side of centre stitch on right-side (knit) rows 
gives decorative holes and increase shaping

abbreviations 

k         :  knit
kbs     :   knit into back of stitch
p         :  purl
pbs     :   purl into back of stitch
loop     :  wind wool round right hand needle 
skpsso : slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over
sppsso : slip 1 stitch, purl 1 stitch, pass the slipped stitch over
k2tog   :  knit 2 together
p2tog   :  purl 2 together



pattern
holly leaf   
row   1    :    cast on 3 stitches
row   2    :    p1 pbs
row   3    :    kbs loop k1 loop kbs   (5 stitches)
row   4    :    pbs p3 pbs
row   5    :    kbs k1 loop k1 loop k1 kbs  (7 stitches)
row   6    :    pbs p5 pbs
row   7    :    kbs k2 loop k1 loop k2 kbs  (9 stitches)
row   8    :    pbs p7 pbs
row   9    :    kbs k3 loop k1 loop k3 kbs  (11 stitches)
row 10    :    pbs p9 pbs
row 11    :    kbs k4 loop k1 loop k4 kbs  (13 stitches)
row 12    :    pbs p11 pbs
row 13    :    cast off 3 stitches k2 loop k1 loop k5 kbs  (12 stitches)
row 14    :    cast off 3 stitches p7 pbs  (9 stitches)

row 15    :    kbs k3 loop k1 loop k3 kbs  (11 stitches)
row 16    :    pbs p9 pbs
row 17    :    kbs k4 loop k1 loop k4 kbs  (13 stitches)
row 18    :    pbs p11 pbs
row 19      :     cast off 3 stitches k2 loop k1 loop k5 kbs  (12 stitches)
row 20    :    cast off 3 stitches p7 pbs  (9 stitches)
 
row 21    :    skpsso k2 loop k1 loop k2 k2tog   (11 stitches)
row 22    :    sppsso p7  p2tog     (9 stitches)
row 23    :    skpsso k5 k2tog   (7 stitches) 
row 24    :    pbs p5 pbs   
row 25    :    skpsso k3 k2tog   (5 stitches)
row 26    :    pbs p3 pbs   
row 27    :    skpsso k1 k2tog   (3 stitches)
row 28    :    pbs p1 pbs
row 29    :    k1 k2together pass knit stitch  (1 stitch)
row 30    :    cast off  last stitch


repeat all for 2 more leaves 



berry 

using red wool and 5mm needles

row  1    :    cast on 1 stitch (loosely)
row  2    :    k1p1k1p1k1p1.......   13 stitches worked into 1 stitch (or as many as possible)
row  3    :    k to end of row
row  4    :    slip 2 stitches pass 1st over 2nd,  slip 1 stitch pass 1st over 2nd,  continue to end
row  5    :    cast off last stitch



stitch together

indigo lopi cardigan (37")

pattern :  indigo lopi cardigan (37")

cardigan finished : still working on the pattern

knitted top-down flat 
sleeves knitted top-down on circular needles 

size 37" uk size 10-12


wool   
alafoss lopi   100% wool  
100m / 100g ball 
7 balls total (684g)
             

needles   
6.5mm  (UK 3)    for main jumper
5mm    (UK6)      for ribbing

tension   (approx)  
12 sts to 4 inches
 115 stitches =  39 inches (100 cm)

measurements 
19.5" across  / 39-40" all round (stretched to fit)
26" long from back neck to hem 
(22" of moss stitch + 4" of ribbing)






worked top down
main part is worked flat 
back worked first (to armpit)
fronts worked down from shoulder seams
back and fronts joined together 
sleeves are set in with short rows
sleeves are worked in the round 
pockets are worked in (optional)
edging/button-band is added separately

lined with a second fluffy angora cardigan (also optional)
widened band at hem to add buttons 



stitches 
  
double rib  (neck/cuffs/hem/edging)
over (multiple of 4 PLUS 2) stitches  

all rows   k2 p2........to end (k2)



moss stitch  
(over odd number of stitches )
1st row   k1 p1 ........to end (k1)
2nd row  k1 p1 ........to end (k1)

when increasing by one stitch the first stitch on the next row will change (to p1 then back to k1.....)







 
back 

cast on 47 stitches work 39 rows in moss stitch  increase each end for underarms taking stitches into pattern row 40  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (49stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (51stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (53stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches each end                         (57stitches) row 47 pattern leave these stitches on a spare needle and start fronts  front 1 pick up 12 stitches from the back for the first shoulder (or cast on 12 stitches and sew the shoulder seam together later) and work in the opposite direction (away from the shoulder/back) pattern 6 rows in moss stitch row 7 cast on 12 stitches at the neck edge                   (24 stitches) pattern 32 more rows in moss stitch increase at outside edge for underarm taking stitches into pattern  to match armhole edge for back row 40  cast on 1 stitch                                            (25 stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch                                            (26 stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch                                            (27 stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches                                          (29 stitches) row 47 pattern leave these stitches  and start second front front 2 pick up 12 stitches from the back at the other shoulder (or cast on 13 stitches and sew the shoulder seam together later) and work away from the shoulder pattern 6 rows in moss stitch row 7 cast on 12 stitches at the neck edge                   (24 stitches) pattern 32 more rows in moss stitch increase at outside edge for underarm  taking extra stitches into pattern  to match armhole edge for back row 40  cast on 1 stitch                                            (25 stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch                                            (26 stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch                                            (27 stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches                                          (29 stitches) row 47 pattern row 48   : join fronts (if the rows are at the wrong end of the needle   just slip onto another needle and knit from the other end  but MAKE SURE IT'S THE RIGHT END!) make sure the increase for the underarms meet up if the stitches don't match up  then increase or decrease 1stitch : 1 stitch won't matter) start at the centre of 1 front (straight edge / large neck increase) pattern across to underarm  (small increase) work across stitches from back; pattern across 2nd front from underarm to centre (29 + 57 + 29 stitches  = 115 stitches in total  ) check that the pieces look ok (in the right order, no twists....) work on these 115 stitches in moss stitch (after a few rows try it on!  ) continue in moss stitch until 17" long  ending with a wrong side row pockets keeping moss stitch pattern  work 21 stitches turn and work on these stitches for  31 rows total leave on spare needle reattach wool to main part of knitting cast on 21 stitches at beginning of row (for pocket) work across these and another 73 stitches  (leaving 21 stitches) turn and cast on 21 stitches  work across these and the main part of the knitting ( 115 stitches ) moss stitch 30 rows in total 31st row cast off 21 work 73 cast off 21stitches  leave on spare needle reattach wool to remaining 21 stitches  work 32 rows moss stitch work back across the 73 stitches of the main part of knitting then the 21 stitches  (115 stitches in total)   next row should be a right side row   (if not work extra row or exchange k and p stitches and start rib with p2)    using smaller needles (k2 p2)  14 times   k1 k2tog ( p2 k2 ) 14 times more   should now be 114 stitches  next row p2 k2............p2 next row k2 p2............k2 repeat these last 2 rows until 4" of double rib  fasten off  sleeves (more detailed version in russet jumper ) uses short rows to shape the shoulder :- knit back and forward at the top of the shoulder; each row 1 stitch longer than the one before wool is wrapped around the next stitch to prevent holes wrap is knitted with the stitch in the following row  using a short circular 6.5mm needle  (or 4 double pointed sock needles) pick up 45 stitches evenly around armhole place 5 markers (loops of coloured wool) as follows:-  1 at centre top 2 loops : 6 stitches either side of centre top 2 loops : 20 stitches either side of centre top these help to count number of stitches and should be slipped NOT knitted work from top of side seam around the sleeve past centre top to 4th marker as follows row 1 (foundation row) work in moss stitch taking stitches into pattern 1 odd stitch at top of side seam 2 stitches  slip 1st loop work 14 stitches  slip 2nd loop work 6 stitches  slip 3rd loop (top of shoulder) work 6 stitches  move 4th marker 1 stitch away from top and wind wool round next stitch as follows  slip marker off work   slip next stitch pass wool to other side of work slip marker back onto needle pass wool back to other side of work slip stitch back (unworked but wrapped) TURN WORK note: knit these wrapped stitches TOGETHER with the wrap in the next row  row 2  (short row ) work back past centre top to next marker  (repeat : wind wool round next stitch/move marker one stitch away  from centre top) slip marker off work   slip next stitch pass wool to other side of work slip marker back onto needle slip stitch back (unworked but wrapped) TURN WORK row 3 (short row) (work back past centre top to next marker ) work 6 stitches slip loop at centre top work 6 stitches  (repeat : move marker 1 stitch away from top and wind wool round next stitch as follows slip marker off work   slip next stitch pass wool to other side of work slip marker back onto needle slip stitch back (unworked but wrapped) TURN WORK  repeat these "short rows" until the 2 moving loops meet the outer 2 loops  each row will be 1 stitch longer when 2 loops each side meet continue working in the round  work round the sleeve until 17" long from side seam (no increase/decrease) change to 5mm needle(s) p2tog (44sts) k2 p2 till ribbing measures  4" cast off  edging / button-band pick up 100 stitches up one front pick up 38 stitches around neck pick up 100 stitches down other front working on these 238 stitches  (could split this and have a seam at the centre back)  work 3 rows for zip fastener OR 5 rows for a button band  start with k2 for rows on right side  and p2 for rows on wrong side   cast off  pocket edging  pick up 18 stitches up pocket top  starting with k2 for rows on right side  and p2 for rows on wrong side  work 5 rows then cast off    repeat for 2nd pocket  sew pocket seams

indigo cardigan version 1 (42")

pattern :  indigo large size 42" 
uk size 14-16

wool   
alafoss lopi   100% wool  
100m / 100g ball 
7 balls total (684g)
             

needles   
6.5mm  (UK 3)    for main jumper
5mm    (UK6)      for ribbing

tension   (approx)  
12 sts to 4 inches
125 stitches =  42 inches (107cm)

measurements 
21" across  / 42" all round
26" long from back neck to hem 
(23" of moss stitch + 3" of ribbing)

back and fronts start off  flat then joined together 





stitches 
  
double rib  (neck/cuffs/hem/edging)
over (multiple of 4 PLUS 2) stitches  

all rows   k2 p2........to end (k2)



moss stitch  
(over odd number of stitches )
1st row   k1 p1 ........to end (k1)
2nd row  k1 p1 ........to end (k1)

when increasing by one stitch the first stitch on the next row will change (to p1 then back to k1.....)







 
back 

cast on 51 stitches work 39 rows in moss stitch  increase each end for underarms taking stitches into pattern row 40  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (53stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (55stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch each end                            (57stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches each end                         (61stitches) row 47 pattern leave these stitches on a spare needle and start fronts  front 1 pick up 13 stitches from the back for the first shoulder (or cast on 13 stitches and sew the shoulder seam together later) and work in the opposite direction (away from the shoulder/back) pattern 6 rows in moss stitch row 7 cast on 14 stitches at the neck edge                   (27 stitches) pattern 32 more rows in moss stitch increase at outside edge for underarm taking stitches into pattern  to match armhole edge for back row 40  cast on 1 stitch                                            (28 stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch                                            (29 stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch                                            (30 stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches                                          (32 stitches) row 47 pattern leave these stitches  and start second front front 2 pick up 13 stitches from the back at the other shoulder (or cast on 13 stitches and sew the shoulder seam together later) and work away from the shoulder pattern 6 rows in moss stitch row 7 cast on 14 stitches at the neck edge                   (27 stitches) pattern 32 more rows in moss stitch increase at outside edge for underarm taking stitches into pattern  to match armhole edge for back row 40  cast on 1 stitch                                            (28 stitches) row 41 pattern  row 42  cast on 1 stitch                                            (29 stitches) row 43 pattern row 44  cast on 1 stitch                                            (30 stitches) row 45 pattern row 46  cast on 2 stitches                                          (32 stitches) row 47 pattern row 48   : join fronts (if the rows are at the wrong end of the needle   just slip onto another needle and knit from the other end  but MAKE SURE IT'S THE RIGHT END!) make sure the increase for the underarms meet up if the stitches don't match up  then increase or decrease 1stitch : 1 stitch won't matter) start at the centre of 1 front (straight edge / large neck increase) pattern across to underarm  (small increase) work across stitches from back; pattern across 2nd front from underarm to centre (32 + 61 + 32 stitches  = 125 stitches in total  ) check that the pieces look ok (in the right order, no twists....) work on these 125 stitches in moss stitch (after a few rows try it on!  )  I tried it on and it was too big  i wanted a stretch-to-fit cardigan (yes, I DID knit a tension square : no, it didn't help) so i frogged it (unravelled) and started again please go to version 2............. if you're following this pattern  continue until 3" shorter than long enough  starting on right side  using smaller needles (k2 p2)  15 times   k2 increase 1 k2  ( p2 k2 ) 15 times more   should now be 126 stitches  next row p2 k2............p2 next row k2 p2............k2 repeat these last 2 rows until 3" of double rib  fasten off  sleeves will be exactly the same in version 2